Levi’s Made and Crafted (LM&C), a division of the premium Levi’s XX line, offers up a broad selection of higher-end products each season. Covering all the bases from outerwear to shirts and bottoms, LM&C gives consumers a particularly strong selection for their Spring/Summer line. I myself was lucky enough to be sent a pair of the Tack model jeans and have been wearing them religiously since.

After spending some time with them and getting to know the jeans in more depth I am now ready to offer up my review of the Levi’s Made and Crafted Tack Rigid Selvedge Jeans.

Details:

• Name: Levi’s Made and Crafted Tack Jeans
• Weight: 12 oz.
• Denim: 100% cotton Japanese Indigo Selvedge Denim (Rigid Wash)
• Other Details:
  • Red Selvedge Line
  • Blue Levi’s flag
  • Made and Crafted Leather Patch
  • Zipper fly
  • Made and Crafted branded waist button
  • Interior Back Pocket Stitching
• Available at: Zappos Online Shop for $198.00

Denim

Selvedge Details

The selvedge denim used in the Tack jeans comes straight from the vintage looms used by Levi’s in Japan. Though the finish of these jeans are marked as “rigid”, do not be deceived. The denim used to make this jean is surprisingly soft and light coming in at about 12 oz. As far as looks go, the denim possesses a nice dark indigo tone that is consistent throughout.

As for the actual selvedge, the denim’s finishing is a bit different than most Levi’s denim that I have seen. While they’ve used the standard red line selvedge they’re famous for, the red is a little bit more subdued by the white selvedge stitching that borders it. This is an aesthetic detail that LM&C takes great pride in including, albeit many may not notice.

Considering the product is for their Spring/Summer collection I feel that the chosen weight of the denim was spot on. Coming in at about 12 oz, the light nature and breathability of this jean makes them a perfect pair for the upcoming warmer days and nights (and would be an excellent addition to our previous post, “5 Pairs of Raw Denim Jeans for Summer“).

Fit

Levi’s Tack Front Back and Side (size 32 x 34)

The fit of the Tack is a bit different than the standard Levi’s 514 slim fit silhouette. As stated earlier, the fit of this jean draws upon a shape Levi’s previously used in the 1960s. The jean starts as a slim fit through the thigh and slightly tapers from the knee down to the bottom hem.

In classic Levi’s fashion, the jean’s fit  is quite true to size. I’m wearing a 32 x 34 above, which is a bit longer than I usually wear, but felt the cuffing at the bottom gives the jeans a slightly more old school look.

Hardware

As the name Made and Crafted implies, immense attention was given to the denim’s construction department. All the stitching was done in two tone gold and yellow thread; sewn just thick enough to be noticed, but not too thick that it becomes obnoxious. Stress points are reinforced with a combination of rivets and bar tack stitching.

The leather backpatch comes in an unstained tan leather color with Levi’s Made and Crafted branding embossed on it. However, one aspect that really stood out to me was the back pocket’s interesting take on the classic Levi’s arc. Rather than being sewn on the outside, the back pocket arches are sewn into the inside seat of the pants themselves. Thus as you wear the pants the pattern wears into the pockets. Of course no Levi’s denim would be complete without the tag, which is included on the back pocket and instead comes in a wonderful blue color.

As we make our way around to the front of the pants we encounter traditionally styled rivets on the front pockets. There’s also find a nifty little hidden selvedge detail on the inside of the coin pocket. The jeans come with a zipper fly, Made & Crafted branded waist button, and the chain stitched hems keep everything together with a tight finish at the bottom of the legs.

Taking a look at the interior of the jeans, there’s another hidden selvedge detail along the left side of the waist opening. Continuing to the left is a waist size tag and Made and Crafted branded pocket bag which also allows you to claim official ownership over your new jeans. The coolest feature of these pocket bags is that Levi’s paid extra attention to detail and sewed one side into the leg stitching so that they do not shift around during wear. The back of the waist features a Levi’s Made and Crafted tag which bears the model name and lot number.

Construction

Bar Tacks, Rivets and Stitching

Levi’s has always been known for it’s sturdy construction as well as their meticulous attention to detail while putting their garments together. From when I opened the package I was excited with what lay in store for me and impressed to see that the pants fit well and felt great. However by the end of the first day of wear, the stitching on the crotch of my jeans had started to come loose.

I let it sit for a couple of days hoping that it wouldn’t spread, but when it did I eventually gave the jeans a quick little rescue sew job and they’ve held up nicely since. All the major seams and stress points seem to have been reinforced with chain stitching and while I’m no garment construction or sewing expert, you’ll have to take a good look through the pictures to gain a full understanding.

The post Levi’s Made & Crafted Tack Rigid Selvedge – Review appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Everything is authentic. From sweatshop manufactured sweatpants, to hand-woven Momotaro jeans, to the non-dairy creamer in your coffee, the word authentic is bandied about at will. Yet in menswear, authenticity is an almost universally positive term often uttered in the same breath as ‘quality’ and ‘classic. Authenticity by definition doesn’t speak to whether a thing is good or bad, it only refers to a product being a faithful representation of its origin and purpose.

When dealing with a specific garment in the abstract, degrees of authenticity aren’t nearly as important as what that authenticity stands for. The sweatpants are authentically foreign sweatshop just as much as Momotaros are authentically Japanese artisanal. No company will be seen touting their authentic sweatshop background, however, so invoking authenticity is basically shorthand for invoking something valued by the community. Breaking down the use of authenticity in the raw denim world can show us specifically what those values are and how advertisers use those values and language to their advantage.

Raw denim fans love to fetishize the sources of goods — from which loom, in which mill, in which country was something produced, etc. – and are borderline obsessed with authentic fades. We reject the inauthentic pre-distressed denim in favor of breaking things in ourselves from the raw state to the point that there are dozens of websites founded just to show off personal wear and tear in denim fades and leather patina. We even dedicate a day of the week at Rawr Denim to Fade Friday.

Breaking in a pair of Red Wing boots (source: itsworn.com)

Beyond personal connections, though, we look for perceived authenticity in the physical parts of a garment. Chain stitching is a perfect illustration. The old school sewing technique tends to unravel much easier than modern lock stitches but it looks cool, can lead to an interesting roping fade, and was a staple of vintage denim.

Despite the advantages of modern lock stitching, new jeans in the raw world have to have a chain stitch on the hem lest they be branded inauthentic. The stitch’s appeal is so strong that there’s even a cult following behind the Union Special, the antique sewing machine that supposedly does it best.

So what is a chain stitch authentic to? Manufacturers first employed it because it was the cheapest and hardest wearing way to secure hems available at the time, but that’s no longer the case. The hardy lock stitch makes it impossible for a chain stitch to ever serve its original purpose again. Roping fades and the design of the stitch were aesthetic chaff in early twentieth-century workwear, now those aesthetics are all we care about. The chain stitch is no longer authentic, it’s fashionable.

Chainstitched hem with roping fades on a 3sixteen SL-100x (source: ajchen.com)

Self Edge San Francisco’s Union Special

In this instance, we see that a garment earns authenticity by recreating the techniques of certain eras valued by the community whether they’re still useful or not. Men’s heritage clothing primarily values the style of mid-century American recreation and work wear and thus the products that adhere to those standards the tightest are generally considered the most authentic.

That doesn’t, however, mean that any clothing unconcerned with recreating the manufacturing processes and aesthetics of a given era is any less authentic or genuine. For example, let’s compare a pair of Levi’s Vintage Clothing reproduction 1947 501s with a pair of mainline Levi’s 501s from the mall. The LVC was painstakingly reconstructed in the United States with materials and manufacturing methods as close to the original model’s as possible. The modern mall jean, on the other hand, was made more economically from projectile-loomed denim and constructed in a South Asian or South American garment factory.

It’s no contest that the LVC is a higher quality piece of clothing but that doesn’t change the fact that it’s a very well made copy and, quality aside, the 501 down at the mall is the genuine article. The original 1947 model was made to provide maximum durability at a minimal cost, which the current mall jean still does. The LVC is an amazing reproduction, but at a retail price of $250 it wouldn’t be the first choice for blue collar workers.

Only a niche market appreciates the details that make the LVC historically special, while the mall jean is an accurate reflection of the times we live in and the purpose denim serves. The Levi’s 501 created in 1947 was authentic to 1947, recreating that piece to the letter sixty years later is aesthetic fashion. Sixty years from now, will LVC be scouring the globe for Filipino seamstresses so they can authentically recreate the 501 from 2013? Only time can tell.

An LVC reproduction 1947 501 (left) and a contemporary 501 (right)

Distinguishing authenticity within a given garment is complicated enough, but the real rub lies in how companies sell these products to us. An otherwise honestly produced item becomes inauthentic when it’s sold via an image dissonant with its origin. That disconnect is fairly obvious with something like knockoffs but the distinction becomes much blurrier with advertising genuine goods.

Let’s look back at the sweatpants and Momotaro. Momotaro‘s artisanal Japanese background happens to be very desirable so the marketers remain authentic to the product’s origin in their advertising. Foreign sweatshops, however, don’t have nearly as much capital with consumers, so the sweats brand creates a backstory that’s more likely to sell, say cotton growers in Georgia.

This invented narrative transforms the pants from being authentically sweatshop to inauthentically Georgian cotton. Advertisers frequently use authenticity narratives like “Georgia cotton” to connect the products they’re selling to an idealized vision of their origin and the past. Authenticity narratives can range from pictures, to music, or even specific language – anything that will evoke the idea of authenticity in the viewer.

Nike’s Yankee advertisement from the 1980s

A contemporary Red Wing ad

Gap co-opted the classic cool of 20th century celebrities in their 1993 khaki ads, none of whom were actually wearing Gap clothing.

But authenticity narratives can just as easily backfire. Wrangler infamously recut the Creedence Clearwater Revival hit “Fortunate Son” into a 2002 ad. The ad used only the first two lines of the song (“Some folks are born to wave the flag/Ooh they’re red, white, and blue”) to brand their jeans as authentically patriotic and classic rock.

Using only those two lines distorted the song’s original anti-Vietnam message into pro-American pomp. This alienated the very customers they hoped to attract and typified Wrangler as the same “man” that CCR railed against in the song. Hypocrisy is death when navigating the waters of authenticity.

Take Levi’s ”Go Forth” campaign with Braddock, Pennsylvania as a case study. Braddock was once a thriving city of industry but shriveled to a bombed-out husk as steel manufacturing moved overseas in the 70s and 80s. In 2010, Levi’s shot print ads and commercials in town featuring Braddock residents as models and donated a million dollars to revitalize the town over a two-year period. The ads ran during the height of the recent economic meltdown and focused on hardscrabble messages like “Will Work for Better Times,” or “Everybody’s Work is Equally Important” with images of Braddock residents going to work in their dilapidated home city. The campaign set out to make Braddock the poster child of industrial ghost towns but at the same time equate that “down but not out” blue-collar American identity and imagery with Levi’s clothing.

Print ads from Levi’s Braddock campaign

The bottom left text reads “Monongahela River/ Braddock, PA”

The dissonance here is that no jeans are or have ever been made in Braddock. Just like the town’s steel company, Levi’s moved the last of its domestic production overseas in 2004 (six years before the “Go Forth” ads) leaving more than a their fair share of Braddock-esque towns behind. In other words, Levi’s is actually the source of the problem it claims to be addressing and the only connection between Levi’s and Braddock, PA is the ad campaign itself. By definition, Levi’s goods associated with the town are inauthentic because the ads are not a true representation of their origin – foreign factories.

To be fair, Levi’s is far from the worst offender in this arena – moving production overseas was probably a necessity for their survival, and Braddock appears to be doing better with their help. One of the consequences of no longer manufacturing goods in the United States, however, is that it becomes impossible to honestly associate those goods with United States manufacturing.

Instead of advertising via images and places that have little to do with their business practices, Levi’s could show us the people, cultures, and practices that actually produce their jeans overseas. If that truth happens to be unglamorous and unflattering then double authenticity points for them. Authenticity means the decisions of a company directly affect their image as a brand.

A Levi’s factory in Haiti, a truly authentic image (source: npr.org)

Maintaining authenticity as a consumer and as a brand is an incredibly nebulous territory that requires constant choices about who you are, what you make, and what it is you represent. You can’t dodge that with authenticity narratives. To a certain extent, authenticity narratives even negate authenticity itself. As Margaret Thatcher said of being powerful and being a lady, “If you have to say you are, you aren’t.” So many heritage labels obsess over authenticity to their roots and where they came from.

That’s all well and good, but they should place even more emphasis on who they are and what they’re doing right now instead of romanticizing the past. In fashion, the eras and aesthetics the community values are constantly in flux. What’s on trend next year could be 1980s punk just as easily as it could be 19th century vaquero, each bearing a host of chainstitch-like authenticity markers. With every change and reinvention it becomes more and more difficult to keep being authentic.

So the next time you’re comparing Momotaro with K-Mart, the question you should be asking isn’t “is this authentic?” but “this is as authentic as what?”

The post As Authentic As What? appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Fade Friday – Levi’s 511 Rigid Dragon (20 Months, 2 Washes)

This week’s Fade Friday showcases a pair of Levi’s 511 Rigid Dragon courtesy of reader, Kostia, after 21 months of hard wear and just two washes. As part of a program in which Levi’s aims to minimize water in the finishing process, they’re constructed of a deep indigo 11.2 oz. denim and serve as a great option for newcomers to raw denim given the low price tag.

Despite some may not be impressed with the non-selvedge finishing, as can be seen by the photos below, the progress from 5 to 12 months is impressive and substantial fades developed in all the right places. Additionally, after 20 months and 1 wash, there’s visible wear and tear (particularly on the wallet pocket) and significant color contrast throughout. The frayed and tattered portions along with the deep honey comb patterns give the jeans a rustic, genuine look.

Details

• Name: Levi’s 511 Slim Fit Jeans – Rigid Dragon
• Weight: 11.2 oz.
• Fit: Slim Fit
• Denim: 99% Cottton, 1% Spandex
• Cost: $48 through Levi’s

Photos: Before

Photos: After

After 5 months and no washes

After 12 months and no washes

After 12 months and 1 wash

After 21 months and 1 wash

After 21 months and 2 washes

After 21 months and 2 washes

The post Fade Friday – Levi’s 511 Rigid Dragon (20 Months, 2 Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Following up its successful event earlier this year in January, the highly respected Bread & Butter Tradeshow held it’s second, and final, segment for 2013. In an effort to emphasize the show’s ability to bring together (over 500) brands and thousands of visitors, the summer edition of Bread & Butter sported the simple theme, “CONNECT”, and was held in its homebase, Berlin, Germany.

The areas of L.O.C.K. (Labels of Common Kin) and Fire Dept. at L.O.C.K. were the meeting points for heritage wear and denim folks, and though the summer season of course brings higher temperatures, visitors were not discouraged in the slightest. Denim retailers, producers, bloggers and enthusiasts came in droves, rendering this particular edition of B&B a memorable denim experience.

We could drone on for days of the show’s immense breadth and scale, but for now we will focus on the two areas, heritage menswear and denim, and cover some of the more remarkable brands we stumbled upon.

3Sixteen

A fan favorite that most denim heads are well accustomed to, numerous European menswear and denim boutiques are beginning to turn to 3sixteen as the leading U.S. denim brands, such as Burg & Schild and Vater und Sohn.

For this most recent B&B segment, 3sixteen presented a few new denim models, including an eye-catching brown weft, as well a great selection of shirts, heavy cotton t-shirt, and incredibly soft hoodies. The duo behind the New York brand, Andrew Chen and Johan Lam, also brought along some of their collaborative and well-worn denim, with Lam hinting at his favorite model, the 3sixteen+ 21BSP.

The Flat Head and R.J.B.

Another crowd pleaser, The Flat Head and Real Japan Blues was one of the most visited booths in the Fire Dept. section of the L.O.C.K. area. Daniel Cizmek, of DC4, leads the company’s European distribution efforts and thus was helped in showcasing a variety of their boots, shirts, leather jackets, leather goods and, of course, denim jeans. The upcoming collection is sure to not disappoint The Flat Head fans, and denim enthusiasts alike.

Daniel Cizmek with The Flat Head crew; one of the shirts from the new collection

BIG JOHN

Led by team members Risa Saito, Kiyo Kakemizu and Ryu Adachi, BIG JOHN was featured some of their latest items, as well as a new collaboration, the Big John x Rockin’ Jelly Bean. For those unfamiliar with them, Rockin’ Jelly Bean is a japanese plastic artist who plays with rockabilly, surf-garage and pin-up images and his art can be found all around japan.

Kakemizu was rocking a pair of M106D, a slim tapered jean constructed  from Faux-Slub denim(000K), and they were also exhibiting a regular straight model, the M104B, and slim straight cut, the M105D. If you missed them this time around and by chance are located in Amsterdam, be sure to stop by the show, Modefabriek, which they will also be attending.

Levis Vintage Clothing, Levi’s Made & Crafted

As expected, LVC and Levi’s Made & Crafted were as popular as ever, presenting the coveted 501s line together with the new LVC tops collection. The orange tab line was also on display, showing a few popular cuts such as the the 606 and the 615. Many tops are based on the cowboy theme, with rich shades of blue.

In traditional fashion, LVC centered part of their booth around an iconic happening of the 20th century. For B&B Connect, they chose to shine the spotlight on the denim tuxedo and “Bing’s Room”. As the story tells us, the late American singer and actor, Bing Crosby, was very fond of wearing denim jeans and jackets, even though denim jeans was heavily frowned upon in the 1950′s.

While on a hunting trip in Vancouver, Canada, Crosby and a friend were wearing entirely denim outfits and were eventually disallowed to stay at a hotel. Once Levi’s caught wind of the incident, they couldn’t help but jump in on the action and designed a denim tuxedo jacket for him. LVC still keeps a few originals in their archives and are slated  to release a repro limited edition soon. To complete the outfit, LVC added a pair of denim pants.

Stay tuned for part two and our additional coverage of other brands at this summer’s Bread & Butter Connect 2013 Show.

The post Bread & Butter Connect Summer 2013 – The Denim Showcase appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

If I can summarize Shrink-To-Fit (STF) in one word it would be “personalization” – how can 501 STF be personal? Aside from the unique historical aspect of the Levis 501, the step-by-step process of getting your pair to fit specifically to your figure is personal within itself.

This guide was made to detail important segments of the STF process as a whole. We’ll start with general rundown of unsanforized denim then lead into the historical concepts of the Levis STF which in order to help readers understand  popular fits and the characteristics behind each of them.

Lastly, we’ll give a rough guide on my own personal method of shrinking your pair without the worry of overly shrinking your waist. We must note that as even Levi’s has conflicting ideologies on how a pair of STF should be wash or not washed, whether or not my method is right or wrong isn’t the real goal. Our intent is to inform those interested in picking up a pair to with enough insight to know what they will be getting into.

Sanforized vs Unsanforized

Before diving into the history of Levi’s 501, it’s critical to understand what separates a pair of Shrink-To-Fit 501 apart from any other jean in the market by exploring its technical nature.

Here’s where the sanforized vs. unsanforized conversation comes into play. Sanforization is a post-weave process patented by Sanford Lockwood Cluett in 1930 and known for its ability to shrink denim that would be otherwise shrunk down later in the consumer process after washing. The cotton is taken through a series of steps including stretching, shrinking and fixing a woven cloth in both length and width.

Or in more detail, the cotton is first moistened by water and/or steam in order to soak the cotton fibres and join them closer together as strands. Second, the cotton strands enter an endless rubber belt and belt squeeze them between a pressure roll and a rubber belt cylinder to stretch out the denim dramatically.

Next, the cotton is fed into the pressure zone and upon leaving it, the surface returns to its pre-squeezed (stretched) size. The effect of this action shortens the warp yarns, which packs the weft (filling yarns) closer together. It is at this very moment that the shrinkage occurs. After compaction, the fabric enters a dryer where the fibres are locked into their shrunken state and the moisture is removed from the fabric.

Sanforization is highly praised for its ability to ensure the fabric (or in our case, denim jeans) will shrink no more than 5% after it’s washed for the first time, as opposed to a potential 10% for unsanforized fabrics. Prior to the 1930′s the sanforization process did not exist, leaving unsanforized as the only finishing method available.

As there is no pre-shrinking in respect to unsanforized denim, the first initial wash is probably the most important step for a long healthy life for denim with this quality. Without this important first wash the cotton fibres will not be reinforced and become liable to tear or rip, making it a critical initial step in the successful personalization of a pair of denim.

Understanding the sanforization process helps us identify the historical concept of the STF 501 and ultimately helps make an informed decision regarding the specific style or fit that you’re looking for.

Levi’s History 501 & 505-0252

Turning now to the historical background, we go way back to the 1860′s when Levis Strauss first started selling dry goods like denim pantaloons and duck canvas bottoms. Despite the fabric not being the most breathable, Strauss sold duck canvas bottoms since they were sturdier than denim. As such, one of the oldest items in Levi’s archive are the 1870′s Duck Canvas bottoms.

During the California Gold Rush, however, many miners complained that the pockets would tear and rip in certain pressure points. Strauss turned to Jacob Davis, a tailor from Reno, Nevada, to reinforce the pairs with rivets and extra stitching.

Since Davis didn’t have enough the means to patent his idea, he partnered with Strauss to help him patent the riveted pants. Thus, it wasn’t until the 1890′s when the first pair of 501 Shrink-to-Fit were made, and not until 1967 when Levi’s finally introduced a pre-shrunk (i.e. sanforized) pair.

Vintage 1890′ 501 Calico

The modern Levis shrink-to-fit can be credited to the 1947, which has also been nicknamed the “Steve McQueen” jeans due to their slimmer fitting top block and slight taper. The 1947′s also had no extra details like crotch rivets, clinchers or suspender buttons. The 1947′s also had the famous double needle stitched arcuate that is seen on modern Levi’s.

Vintage 1947 501XX – “Steve McQueen”

The 1954 501z (which later became the 502-0117) is probably the most influential STF pair since it’s been widely credited by denim enthusiasts for beginning the trend of sanforizing denim. Sanforization was already placed on the market with the 1950′s Levis Twill Chinos but had actually yet to make the leap to denim.

The 1954′s also had one very unique feature that was used to help sell to some of the more picky customers on the East Coast – the zipper fly. The zipper fly was a huge success with the East Coast market, but also left the pair slightly warped after washing since the jeans shrunk and the zipper fly remained unchanged.

1950′s Levis Advertisement

Levi’s began to use the same process of sanforization from their twill chinos in the denim, trying it out to counteract the wavy-zipper problem on the freshly created 505-0252 which contained the same zipper fly and a card-stock patch. Due to its popularity the 505-0252 became the leading pioneer of pre-shunk denim in Levi’s archives.

After gaining a sense of different fits under the 501 & 505 naming schemes, there’s more of a rationale behind taking a brand new pair of jeans and tossing them into the tub to reach the ultimate experience when dealing with STF 501′s.

Vintage Levis Pre-Shrunk advertisement (left), 1967 505-0252 (right)

Washing Your 501 Shrink-To-Fit

There are multiple theories when it comes to washing or not washing your jeans. Though many recommend wearing for as long as possible before washing and it’s hard for some to soak a crisp pair of raw jeans, it’s the most important step to give your denim a long life (as you’ll lessen the chance of rips, tears, and pesky blowouts).

We’ve covered soaking raw denim in previous articles, but have re-capped below in the context of the Shrink-To-Fit.

Step 1

Fill a tub with the hottest water available. Fill it up halfway or at least enough so the pair can be fully submerged underwater.

Step 2

Next, find items that can help hold down the pair underwater since jeans tend to float. Have the pair sit in the tub submerged for at least 20 minutes, you will see a bluish tint around the edge of the water since the indigo is slightly bleeding out.

Step 3

Once the 20 minutes have passed, hang your pair over a shower or tub since it will drip. Once you feel the pants are moist (not wet) put them on to ensure that your pair doesn’t shrink past your hips. This method also tends to make a better fit since it drys up on your body.

Step 4

Wear the pair until they have fully dried. Be careful to not sit on any  furniture or walk on white carpet if your pair tends to drag at all since it will bleed and stain.

Step 5

You’ve successfully shrunk your STF pair, now wear as much as desired.

1954 501z Shrink to Fit; Before (left), After (right)

1954 501z Shrink to Fit; Before (left), After (right)

Levi’s Vintage Clothing also made a short video on how to tub wash your jeans. It varies a bit from my personal method but different methods is what Levi’s STF is all about.

Friendly and Final Reminders

• Most Levi’s STF do not shrink 10% as advertised, many tend to shrink between 6-8% after the first wash.
• If you buy an anti-fit pair like the 1933′s or 1955′s 501, shrinking will not change the overall fit of the jean. It will just become smaller but the straight fit will stay a straight fit.
• The slimmest STF pairs in the LVC collection are 1954 501z, 1947XX and the 1978 Small “e“
  
• The 1966 “Bob Dylan” and 1978 501 have a lighter synthetic indigo dye so it tends to fade much faster then any other 501.

The post Levi’s 501 Shrink-To-Fit (STF) Denim – The Ultimate Guide appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Levi’s San Francisco Flagship Location Launch (Source: Ashley Batz, Refinery29)

Fans of denim in general are sure to know that San Francisco is the home to Levi’s, easily the most well-known brand of jeans which has also been in operation since 1853. With that much history as well, you know that any flagship location has to pull out all the stops.

I was lucky enough to visit the previous Union Square flagship location, and I came away impressed by the scope and amount of offerings. However, the new location on Market Street & 4th Street does not disappoint.

The new shop contains 7,000 square feet of LEED-certified space, designed to reach an even larger audience than before. Market Street in San Francisco is one of the most popular shopping destinations in the city, and the single-floor store contains plenty of attractions for potential customers.

The wide open design features segmented areas that could be described as mini shops. The popular Levi’s Made & Crafted and Levi’s Vintage Collection lines are present, as well as Lot Number 1, which is a special made-to-order program only featured in two stores in the U.S.–this being one of them.

Going an extra step further, the store also features a tailor shop, where customers can get their denim customized to their liking.

Sticking with the theme of sustainability, the store features reclaimed wood from city piers and barns across Northern California and a special “Makers” section that highlights goods made by local artisans and designers. The walls also feature collaborations with local Bay Area artists, keeping true to the brand’s love and appreciation for its foggy city.

The new Levi’s flagship store is open now at 815 Market Street (at 4th Street) in San Francisco; 9:00am – 9:00pm Monday through Saturday and 10:00am – 8:00pm on Sundays.

Levi’s Lot No1 (source: superfuture)

Levi’s Made & Crafted (source: superfuture)

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If you’re into raw denim, there’s a good chance that you’re also into heritage products; those that harken to an earlier time in history and emulate the strong craftsmanship of days gone by. In fact, many of us have a tendency to idealize the past and compare contemporary products with those made in the nebulous bygone era — leaving contemporary products to often fall short of the standards set.

The average denim enthusiast is well-versed in the birth of denim. The rise of Levi Strauss and his denim overalls in San Francisco led to the proliferation of jeans from workman’s pantaloons to a staple in first the counterculture, then into the mainstream where denim resides today. There’s no denying that jeans were born in the United States with Levi’s and their imitators one hundred and forty years ago, but an industry-wide trend of outsourcing labor to cut costs began around the turn of the millennium. Even Levi’s, the originator, closed its last U.S. manufacturing plant a decade ago in 2003.

Around 2003 it would have been easy to find denim made in Latin America and Asia, but one would be hard-pressed a few years ago to lay hands on a pairs of denim both sourced and crafted in the United States. Those days are over. We are in the midst of a renaissance of made-in-the-US artisan goods which, luckily for us, includes raw denim as a production staple.

Tellason, 3sixteen, Raleigh, and Baldwin, just to name a few, are leading the charge in the effort to offer quality goods held to superior standards. The old pioneer, Levi’s, is also back in the mix, producing some of their wares back at home in the good old U.S.A.

3sixteen and Tellason – Just two notable U.S.-based denim companies

However, what makes these brands special and why should anyone care if his or her denim is made in the United States? There are a few good reasons, two of which boil down to the meaty topics of production and quality.

Transparency of Production

When it comes to companies that mass produce in China, Bangladesh, or Mexico, it’s damn near impossible to know where and how exactly your denim has been sourced. This is not to say that these countries lack capable workers who can sew together some mean denim. Under what conditions though are these workers producing these jeans? Working standards are not as closely monitored elsewhere as they are in the United States, and employees are willing to work for much less than what would be considered an adequate living wage here.

Furthermore, when a company is designing their products in one country and manufacturing them in another, it’s more difficult to control quality. Many of the “Made in America” brands we feature produce their goods close to headquarters and can thus oversee the production of their denim from beginning to end to ensure that the product is up to snuff.

Hell, the one-man brands are the producers, so you know exactly what went into the construction of your jeans. These brands express a passion for the goods they produce, and they are serious about ensuring that each part of the process is going according to their visions.

Sure, you can find cheaper jeans that were made elsewhere, but you have to ask yourself why they’re cheaper. You can rest assured knowing that when you buy a pair of premium made-in-the-US denim, you’re supporting ethical production practices and receiving quality-controlled goods.

Quality of Goods

One of the most exciting aspects of denim being produced in the United States is that many of the companies who produce their goods in the U.S. are establishing partnerships to create jeans. They feature top quality details that not only look great, but also stand up to the test of time and heavy wear.

First things first, let’s start with the denim itself. America can lay claim to housing one of the companies who form the foundation of high-quality denim production in the world, let alone America, having been in business now for 122 years.

That’s right, we’re talking about Cone Mills. If you’re wearing premium denim made in the U.S. there’s a good chance it came from Cone Mills. They supplied Levi’s with denim way back, and many of the brands today are recognizing what Levi’s did a century ago: Cone Mills is serious about their commitment to producing world class denim.

Aside from having the history to back up their business, they’re continuing to innovate and strive to produce novel fabrics. There are plenty of denim heads around the world who will swear by denim made at Cone.

This is not to say that all premium American denim brands utilize Cone Mills, but they are certainly discerning in their choice of denim. Take, for example, 3sixteen. They utilize denim from Kuroki Mills, made specifically for their company to ensure a unique pair of jeans. Kaihara Kuroki has been using vintage shuttle looms in full production for a couple decades now, and anyone who has been lucky enough to own a pair can attest to their quality.

Another detail that denim enthusiasts love is the leather patch on the back proclaiming the brand name or icon. The beauty of a leather patch – of leather in general in fact – is that it will age with the denim, adding another unique aspect to the jeans. One of the companies at the forefront of creating beautiful patches is Tanner Goods from Portland, Oregon. 3sixteen was the first to utilize their leather before many other brands, such as Tellason, followed suit.

The Bottom Line

It’s exciting to see American brands stepping up to the plate and taking a crack at producing jeans that rival anything made worldwide. Any accusations of xenophobia are misdirected; this isn’t about a fear of foreign companies taking over what the U.S. began so many years ago. Of course, the debate between supporters of U.S. denim and supporters of Japanese denim won’t be settled here. But that’s not the point either.

Rather, it’s about taking a moment to recognize that, at long last, we are seeing a reemergence of the United States as a major player in the design and production of high-quality denim. We’re no longer left looking longingly toward the past for products we can be proud of. They are all around us, right here and right now.

The post It’s About Time – The Renaissance of Made in America Denim appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

By LEVI’s

When it comes to denim, the first name that no doubt springs to mind is Levi’s®. With 140 years of experience, not only is Levi’s® the oldest denim company in the world, it has also become such an industry bellwether that its very name is thought of as being synonymous with “jeans.”

Throughout its history, Levi’s® has always taken a forward-thinking approach to product. From Levi’s® Red Tab to RED labels, the Commuter Series to the premium XX division—which includes the Levi’s® Vintage Clothing and Made & Crafted collections—their offerings have changed the idea of denim as we know it.

As the company that Levi Strauss founded continues to expand its established lines and create more niche collections, it’s clear that the brand’s goal is to arm today’s creative generation for the modern frontier. In that light, here are our selections for three Levi’s® staples that are timeless, raw, iconic, and wallet-friendly:

501 Original Shrink-to-Fit Jeans

As one of Levi’s® signature and most celebrated pieces, the 501® Original Shrink-To-Fit Jeans are about as classic as it gets. Quite frankly, they are the epitome of raw jeans, and a tried-and-true favorite of denim heads everywhere.

What’s more, as Levi’s® continues to take an environmentally conscious approach to its production, the company has brought the 501® Original Shrink-To-Fit into the fold of the Water<Less program, an initiative whereby 20 percent of the jeans’ material is comprised of recycled plastic bottles.

• Name: Levi’s 501 Original Shrink-to-Fit Jeans
• Weight: 12.5 Oz.
• Fit: Straight leg
• Starting at: Levi’s for $48.00

Trucker Jacket

Having made it’s debut over fifty years ago, the Trucker Jacket has successfully withstood the test of time and earned it’s reputation as yet another classic Levi’s garment. While it it’s difficult to compare the level of detail and construction to the LVC Type I, Type II, and Type III jackets, the jacket offers offers an iconic and versatile aesthetic without compromising function.

• Name: Levi’s Trucker Jacket
• Weight: 12.1 Oz.
• Fit: Straight
• Starting at: Levi’s for $78.00

Sawtooth Western Shirt

Although the San Franciscan brand unveiled it’s lighter western wear in the 1940′s, it wasn’t for another decade that we were introduced to the original Sawtooth Western Shirt. Named after the saw blade shape on the pocket flaps, this particular Western Shirt has evolved quite a bit since it’s rugged days on the ranch and now takes on a more slim, modern fit. Through all iterations, however, it’s still held it’s place as one of Levi’s pioneering staples.

• Name: Levi’s Sawtooth Western Shirt
• Weight: 3.6 Oz.
• Fit: Slim
• Starting at: Levi’s for $78.00

The post Equip Yourself For Levi’s Modern Frontier With Three Raw Pieces appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Growing up through the early 2000′s shaped my fashion sense in a unique way. Through my teenage years I found myself deeply immersed in the punk rock and skateboarding scenes. As many of you know, both of these cultures have been historically intertwined. Their ethos of going against the grain, doing things yourself, and wearing unique fashions have become almost synonymous with each other.

Perhaps one of the most staple pieces between both cultures are denim jeans. Faded, torn and deconstructed jeans served as a signal that you did not live life in the green. They were and still are a testament to living life to its fullest potential. Case in point – the Ramones. They were famously known for wearing their jeans until they literally fell apart.

Punk rock pioneers, The Ramones, in their signature leather jackets and denim

As I discovered the culture behind raw denim, I learned about the idea of wearing a garment that told a story through its signs of wear. Immediately after being gifted my first pair, I took to the internet to learn about raw denim and how I should care for it etc. Many of the links led me to this very site, Rawr Denim, which turned out to be pretty knowledgeable about the raw denim space and provided fuel to my interest and knowledge base.

There was one question that had always been nagging me though. How did the raw and selvedge denim become so popular? I know that unwashed denim used be the standard and the market later strayed towards pre-distress and mass cutting, but how was it decided that raw denim was once again “in vogue” and fashionable?

While this article is rather exhaustive, the aim is to delve into this pressing question and pick the brains of some of today’s producers of raw denim.

The 90′s and early 2000′s were an interesting time for fashion. Buying jeans pre-distressed and ripped seemed to be the cool thing to do for a while, but from about 2005 onwards, dark wash and raw denim has surged in popularity. A number of brands – such as Levi’s, A.P.C., Samurai, and Evisu - seem to have resurrected raw and selvedge denim from near extinction.

Interesting, but how and why did select consumers suddenly turn their attention to raw and selvedge denim? Was it the level of care and craftsmanship put in to making the garments? Perhaps it was the mentality of having a “historic” or “authentic” ethos behind the garment, or maybe it was even the DIY approach of creating your own fades and distress patterns.

I’m sure that the motivation for consumers could be one, all, or even none of these reasons. How did you yourself get into raw denim?

A State of the Union – Where We Are

The raw denim scene at this time is a special hybrid of aesthetic and ideals. It currently stands at a crossroads where modern meets traditional and where basic meets the outrageous and revolutionary. The 800 lb. gorilla names such as Levi’s been joined  by heavy-hitting newcomers like Nudie, Naked and Famous and Baldwin Denim. Smaller brands – including Tellason, Ande Whall, Roy, Rogue Territory, and Left Field NYC - have also begun to gain popularity and build a strong reputation around their collections.

Alongside the joining of new and old school brands, we have also seen the same marriage of modern and traditional sensibilities in terms of fit and construction techniques. Brands are producing heritage pieces that harken back to the days when denim was worn purely as work wear with fits that emulate the originals, hence their birth of vintage labels such as Levi’s LVC and Lee’s Vintage Collections).

Some companies, such as Samurai, take the approach of constructing denim in a historical way on vintage looms; enabling a more unique slubby feel to each pair produced while making the jean in more modern fits such as slim and skinny. Other players, like Naked and Famous, bring raw denim completely into the modern era. State of the art-constructed Japanese selvedge denim is utilized with modern fits and combined occasionally with unorthodox treatments like glow-in-the-dark or rainbow core thread.

While all of this denim proliferation is well and good, we find ourselves confronted with perhaps the most difficult characteristic of the internet age. The internet has completely democratized the process of distribution so that anyone with an idea and clever marketing plan may bring their product to the masses. The barriers of entry have been undoubtedly lowered, thus opening the proverbial floodgates to lead to an even further boost of brands, perhaps to the point of product saturation.

This saturation and ease of distribution certainly comes with both upsides and downsides. For starters, raw denim enthusiasts have never had such an immense number and diverse range of options to choose from. With so many other companies offering a niche product as well, the increased competition should theoretically push brands to differentiate and create more unique and better products.

Unfortunately, quality does not always correlate with quantity. End-consumers have been forced to develop a filter in order to sift through the noise and determine which product is actually better. Seems easy enough but this task is even more difficult – and necessary – as so much commerce is now conducted online.

Usually individuals tend to stick to larger brands known for their quality, while occasionally trying out some smaller brands that have gained notoriety through word-of-mouth. This also means that some brands who are able to market well can move product that may not be as high quality as another brand with higher quality goods without a honed marketing approach.

Despite the strong presence the internet has in selling raw and selvedge denim there are still many brick-and-mortar stores that sell quality garments. Self Edge, Blue in Green, and Tenue de Nimes are three such purveyors that have all made names for themselves through melding their online and offline retail approaches. Each offer (and curate) quality and rare products while providing exceptional knowledge and customer services through their storefronts and online portals.

While this is one perspective on the current denim scene, we now turn to three makers for their thoughts and insights on the industry - Zack Meyers of Zace Meyers Overall Co., Christian McCann of Left Field NYC, and Brandon Svarc of Naked and Famous.

Zach Meyers of The Great Zace Meyers Overall Co.

Zachary Meyers of The Great Zace Overall Co.

The current state of of the industry is better than ever! It would appear as if there’s a current resurgence in the artisan community of craftsmen and craftswomen. I remember ten years ago when I personally started making selvedge jeans in Ohio and people thought I was crazy for my belief in American made and the sacrifices I made to accomplish such a goal.

No matter how many people buy a sewing machine to make a pair of jeans, the fact of the matter is, who will have the ability to produce a premium jean at an affordable price and make a bunch to fuel the demand? It’s awesome to see so many people attempting to make jeans and also to see the denim scene essentially demanding American Made. The future looks bright!

Christian McCann of Left Field NYC

Christian McCan of Left Field NYC

It’s good that we have a lot more options for Made-in-America denim, but it would be nice if newer brands tried to differentiate themselves from what’s already out there either in style, fit or branding. I think branding is important to distinguish yourself. I’m kind of shocked that many brands don’t even have custom tack buttons or rivets or blank leather labels. I feel that shows a lack of passion. That said, it’s still nice to see handcrafted, small batch jeans being made in America by independent brands.

Regarding denim, I was very happy to see that Cone had expanded their White Oak plant to address the demand for American-made selvedge denim. I just hope they can get a little more creative with their development. I think there is a huge opportunity for another mill to produce American made selvedge denim, duck or twill. I’m surprised the Japanese haven’t set up shop in the US to do this already.

It would be nice to see companies like Levis, Lee and Wrangler reopen up some of the factories they abandoned for cheaper overseas labor. The East Coast apparel industry has been decimated, and it makes it very hard to produce clothing here. I believe Americans are now willing to pay a bit more for American-made denim, and if done in mass, US-made jeans could be made more affordable. That would put the country back in the sweet spot, and the apparel industry could supply millions of jobs to out of work Americans.

Step it up Obama, you saved Detroit now it’s time to rebuild the apparel industry in America.

Brandon Svarc of Naked and Famous Denim

Brandon Svarc of Naked and Famous Denim (image source: Hypebeast)

I find it so funny when people ask me if I’m worried that because ‘raw denim jeans’ is a trend now people will move away from. To me that’s such nonsense. Raw denim isn’t a trend at all. It’s the tacky washed and distressed denim jeans that are the fad.

People have been wearing raw jeans for over 100 years and will continue to wear them for the next 100 and beyond. That’s like asking me if Coke is a fad. Again, it’s the tacky Crystal Pepsi and New Coke that are short lived, while the original Coke will continue to be consumed and loved for the next 100 years and beyond.

Where Are We Heading?

Perhaps the most looming question for all of us then is where will our niche of leg wear go from here? Will the raw denim scene continue to grow and flourish or will it slowly fade into the ether as a fad of modern fashion? The market has recently seen a range of new brands of all shapes and sizes, but is it possible this will have a negative effect? Could consumers become jaded and begin to ignore the raw denim culture as a whole?

As we know, brands like Samurai and Pure Blue Japan produce products that far exceed what most people count as satisfactory when it comes to their construction and fabric. However, the high standard that these products are made to often translates into their a lofty price tag that, to those who do not understand the rationale behind the pricing, may receive a derisory sniff and a movement toward a cheaper alternative.

On the flip side, larger, more established brands can make raw and selvedge denim more accessible to the general public through large scale mass production and lower price points. Sounds like a fantastic idea right? It is, but this mass production and lower price can also be reflected within the finished product by lower quality garments and less attention to detail.

That said, there is a silver lining. Currently raw denim culture is bigger and stronger than it has ever been and there are seemingly no signs of it slowing down. It is becoming so popular that even larger companies are taking note of the growing trend and either resurrecting past lines that include raw and selvedge denim or creating entirely new lines.

However, we’d love to hear your thoughts on the state of the world of raw denim and what’s on the horizon; feel free to share your comments below

The post Raw Denim – A State of the Union appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

It goes without saying that Levi’s is a name that needs no introduction. From their workwear origins to the competitively-priced fashion titan that they have become, they’ve set a high standard for denim goods. This week, we’ll be taking a look at a beautifully worn in pair of 513s; a slim-straight, mid-rise option.

This pair comes from our Johann Kim, who purchased the 513 Rigid Selvedge at a local Levi shop for $75.00. Despite the potential issues with Levi’s raw options being allegedly washed and treated, Johann took the plunge and gave them a go.

His first wash came at 4 months with cold water and light detergent, followed by another at 6 months (which he attributes to some rigorous physical activity, including racquetball which he so eloquently put was “for lols”), and a subsequent ocean wash, which he used our guide to accomplish. Since then he has  washed his denim every 3 months.

Details

• Name: Levi’s 513 Rigid Selvedge
• Weight: 12.5 Oz.
• Fit: Slim-Straight
• Other Details:
  • 5 pocket
  • Copper Hardware
  • Red Selvedge ID
• Available at: Amazon for $77.95
  

Photos – Before

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Levi’s 513 (1 Year, 4 Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Regardless of whether you wear a suit or uniform at work, Marcus Hall wants you to look good when you step into his denim, Marc Nelson Denim. Hall, 43, takes this ethos from his grandfather, L.C. Nelson, who wore a uniform everyday to his job as a manager at Dempster Brothers in Knoxville, TN. Nelson may have spent his days in uniform manufacturing garbage trucks but when he stepped out of the factory, Hall says, he made the effort to look good in polyester leisure suits and patent leather boots. “He was just a sharp, cool, dresser” Hall says, “when he went to Vegas, he looked like a black mobster almost.”

Hall’s working class and fashion roots run deeper than his grandfather. Growing up, most of his family – brothers, uncles, parents – worked at the Levi’s factory on Cherry Street; just about a mile away from his current operation at 602 Randolph street. Hall remembers family and folks around the neighbourhood telling him, “Hey, you know I put the buttons on those jeans?” or “Hey, I did the zipper on those.” He also fondly remembers being inside the facility as a child.

“It was massive, there were all these huge washers and dryers and everything was so big” he said, “and then you remember that we’re in Knoxville and we’re selling this stuff to the world because everybody in the world wears Levi’s.”

Sadly the Levi’s plant closed in 1983, taking a lot of the vibrant community along with it. Hall said the closing affected car lots, restaurants and 24-hour diners in the community that serviced Levi’s employees. Hall hopes to revive some of that community when he moves Marc Nelson production to Knoxville next year.

The Marc Nelson building sits just on the edge of Old City in Knoxville, a neighbourhood of repurposed factories, coffee shops and restaurants that seems to be going through a revitalization of its own. Hall wants to contribute to Knoxville’s rejuvenation and make Marc Nelson a destination. While L.C. King will still handle some outsourcing, Hall will employ at least four locals to sew on his line. L.C. King will work on some non-selvedge base line denim and khakis.

Hall said the selvedge denim will be sewn in Knoxville. After experimenting with seams on the pockets and various shirts and accessories, Hall is excited about Marc Nelson’s renewed focus on a basic, five-pocket jean; especially in the American south, which can be a difficult market to educate. “I want to show them that there’s something besides Ralph Lauren, preppy, button-down frat boys or pure workwear, there’s something in between.” Hall said.

In addition to the cuts available online, Marc Nelson offers some of the most affordable custom work in the South East. Starting around $270, custom buyers can select rivets and buttons while scaling up to about $400 opens up some denim selection and pocket bag fabric. Hall hopes that his brand continues to grow and become an anchor in the community he watched fall apart when industry left.

For more information, visit their website.

The post Marc Nelson Denim – Southern Comfort With Contemporary Edge appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

As long-time readers here well know, every Friday we focus our attention on an aged pair of raw denim jeans through our weekly instalment, Fade Friday. Though not every episode is a fan favourite, there are a healthy handful that garner much more interest and enthusiasm.

More importantly, with 2013 now in our rear-view mirror, we take a moment to round up the top 13 fades from the past year. If there’s a pair that you think we’ve missed, let us know in the comments below.

1. Levi’s 511 Rigid Dragon (20 Months, 2 Washes)

Details

• Weight: 11.2 oz.
• Fit: Slim Fit
• Denim: 99% Cotton, 1% Spandex
• Length of Wear: 20 Months
• Number of Washes: 2
• Original Fade Friday

2. Samurai S5000S 21 Oz. (5 Months, 1 Soak, 1 Wash)

Details

• Weight: 21 oz.
• Fit: Straight Leg, Mid Rise
• Denim: 100% Cotton, Japanese Selvedge
• Length of Wear: 5 Months
• Number of washes: 1
• Original Fade Friday

3. Unbranded 201 UB201 (3 Years, 4 Washes)

Details

• Weight: 14 Oz.
• Fit: Tapered
• Other Details:
  • Blank fly buttons, rivets, and leather patch
  • Chain stitched hem
  • Two-toned stitching
  • Blue selvedge
• Original Fade Friday

4. Strike Gold 1105 (2 Years, 13 Washes)

Details

• Weight: 14.5 Oz.
• Fit: Slim Leg
• Denim: 100% Japanese Cotton Selvedge Raw Unsanforized Denim (golden sparkle ID)
• Additional Details:
  • Hidden Rivets
  • Button Fly
  • Deerskin Leather Tag
  • Iron Male Rivet – Copper Female Rivet
• Length of Wear: 2 Years
• Number of washes: 13
• Original Fade Friday

5. Pure Blue Japan XX-011 (26 Months, 10 Washes)

Details

• Name: Pure Blue Japan XX-011 
• Weight: 13.5 Oz.
• Denim: 100% Cotton Selvedge Denim from Okayama, Japan
• Fit: Tapered
• Other Details
  • Left Hand Twill
  • Indigo warp with grey weft
• Length of Wear: 26 Months
• Number of Washes: 10 Months
• Original Fade Friday

6. Levi’s 511 Rigid (14 months, 2 washes, 1 soak)

Details

• Weight: 11.2 Oz.
• Fit: 511 Slim
• Denim: 100% cotton
• Length of Wear:  14 Months
• Number of Washes: 2 washes, 1 soak
• Original Fade Friday

7. Eternal 811s (2 Years, No Washes)

Details

• Name: Eternal BIG811XXX “Contest Jeans”
• Weight: 14.5 Oz.
• Fit: Mid-rise, straight fit
• Denim: Unsanforized, 100% Japanese Cotton Selvedge Raw Denim
• Length of Wear: 2 Years
• Number of washes: None
• Additional Details:
  • 39″ inseam
  • Half-lined back pockets
  • 6 oz. indigo-dyed pocket bags
  • Custom contest label
  • Custom leather patch
• Original Fade Friday

8. Skull Jeans 5010xx 6×6 (4 Years, Unknown Washes)

Details

• Name: Skull Jeans 5010xx 6×6
• Weight: 14.5 Oz.
• Fit: Slim tapered cut
• Denim: 100% Pima Cotton
• Length of Wear: 4 years
• Number of Washes: Unknown
• Original Fade Friday

9. Iron Heart 634S-RAW (8 Months, 8 Washes)

Details

• Name: Iron Heart 634S-RAW Limited Run
• Weight: 21 Oz. (shrinks to 23 Oz. post-soak)
• Denim: Unsanforized 100% Zimbabwean Long Fiber Cotton Denim
• Fit: Straight Leg
• Length of wear: 8 Months
• Washes: 8 Washes
• Additional Details:
  • Button fly
  • Hidden rivets
  • Right Hand Twill
  • Limited Run
• Original Fade Friday

10. Unbranded 21 Oz. 121 Skinny (2.5 Months, No Washes)

Details

• Weight: 21 Oz.
• Fit: Skinny
• Denim: 100% cotton, sanforized, rope-dyed raw indigo denim
• Other Details:
  • Silver matte fly buttons and rivets
  • Leather patch
  • Chain stitched hem
  • Two-toned stitching
• Original Fade Friday

11. Levi’s LVC 1947 501xx (9 Months, No Washes)

Details

• Weight: 14 Oz.
• Fit: Classic fit with straight leg
• Length of Wear: 9 months
• Washes: None
• Other Details:
  • 100% cotton
  • Shrink to fit selvage denim from Cone Mills Oak Plant
• Original Fade Friday

12. Naked & Famous Left Hand Twill (15 Months, 2 Washes)

Details

• Name: Naked and Famous Left Hand Twill Selvedge
• Weight: 13.75 Oz.
• Fit: Skinny Guy (Medium rise, Straight leg, Slim throughout)
• Denim: Old-School Left Hand Twill Weave
• Other Details:
  • Deep Indigo Dyed
  • Japanese Fabric
  • Made in Canada
• Original Fade Friday

13. Kamikaze Attack x Naked & Famous (6 Months, No Washes)

Details

• Name: Kamikaze Attack x Naked & Famous
• Weight: 14.5 Oz.
• Fit: Naked & Famous Skinny Guy Fit
• Denim: Super Dark Indigo Warp + Weft Unsanforized 100% Selvedge Denim
• Length of wear: 6 months
• Number of washes: 0
• Other details
  • Half-lined back pockets
  • Hidden copper rivets
  • Deerskin leather patch
• Original Fade Friday

Honorable Mention – SEXI14 (15 Months, 8 Soaks, 3 Washes)

Details

• Weight: 15 Oz.
• Fit: Slim Fit
• Denim: Pure indigo un-calendered, un-mercerized, & un-singed 100% selvedge denim
• Length of wear: 15 months
• Number of washes: 3
• Number of soaks: 8
• Original Fade Friday

The post Top 13 Fades of 2013 – Fade Friday appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

When you weave together cotton warp yarn and white cotton filling yarn you get a 90 degree diagonally interwoven pattern called twill. But that’s not where it ends. Given the intricacies of denim fabric and how it is used in construction, which direction the yarns are woven is incredibly important and not to be overlooked. Not only does it play a pivotal role in the how soft the denim will feel, but it also impacts how the wear patterns will look and wear over time.

As it’s such an important component of raw denim, we succinctly walk through the three main types - Right Hand Twill, Left Hand Twill, and Broken Twill.

Right Hand Twill

Right Hand Twill on a pair of Iron Heart 15oz Right Hand Twill Straight Leg Jean

Right hand twill (RHT) is the most common and can be easily identified by the diagonal pattern that moves from the bottom left of the fabric to the top right. This style was made also famous by Levi’s and has become the industry standard amongst many denim producers.

Right hand twill, or “Z-twill”, has a flatter and smoother surface than the other types of twill. One differentiating characteristic is how much tighter and compact the RHT is due to being woven with S-twist yarn; which is spun counterclockwise, and creates more defined fades.

Left Hand Twill

Left Hand Twill on a pair of Naked & Famous Left Hand Twill

Conversely, Left hand twill (LHT) or “S-twill”, is woven in the exact opposite direction as RHT, starting from the bottom right and moving up to the top left of the fabric.

Denim powerhouse, Lee, originally used LHT, which has an even softer feel than right hand twill because it is woven with Z-twist yarn, which is spun clockwise. If a left hand twill denim is worn heavily over a period of time, the end results typically carry fuzzy, vertical fading.

Broken Twill

Broken Twill on a pair of Tenue de Nîmes x Rogue Territory Broken Twill Jeans

As of the last of the three twills, when you combine RHT with LFT, you get the memorable broken twill. First used by Wrangler in 1964, broken twill alternates left and right at every two warp ends to create a peculiar zig-zag pattern.

The premise behind this twill was that it would help combat twisting after washing denim present with right hand or left hand twill; after the denim is washed it tends to twist due to tension of the fabric.

The post Understanding Twills: Left Hand Twill, Right Hand Twill, Broken Twill appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Today’s Fade Friday features a well broken-in pair of Levi’s Slim Straight 514 raw selvedge denim. The owner, forum user Kleetz, wore the jeans for 20 months and washed them twice, resulting in some impressive features including heavy honeycombs on the back of the knees, light whiskering across the front and a deep wallet fade on the back right pocket.

While some of the fades, including the knees, are very high contrast; much of the fading through legs is more subtle, slowly gradating through the blue spectrum until the jeans turn almost white. This is aided somewhat by the fit the 514 model gives as the fit brings the jean in nicely in traditional fading areas. With almost two years down and no apparent repairs, these jeans have a lot of life left in them.

For more information, see the full forum thread.

Details

• Name: Levi’s Slim Straight 514 Raw Selvedge
• Weight: 14 Oz.
• Fit: Slim Straight
• Denim: 100% selvedge denim
• Length of wear: 2o months
• Number of washes: 2
• Number of soaks: 0
• No longer available
  

Photos – Before

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Levi’s 514 (20 Months, 2 Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Frequent readers of this site are familiar with the modern incarnation of denim. The standard five-pocket jean, while pretty detailed, is missing a whole slew of design features that were ubiquitous in the early 20th century. One fairly familiar detail that is seen in a lot of reproduction models today is the back cinch. Placed on the yoke of the jeans, it was a common way for the wearer to tighten the waist before the widespread popularity of belts. The back cinch, like other vintage details, has significant historical reasoning behind its removal.

As is what seems like law, all denim history begins (and ends) with Levi’s. The now-legendary West Coast brand’s relationship with the back cinch dates back to as early as 1872, where its function was to tighten the waist in an age when belts were not commonplace. In 1873, Levi’s patented its now-famous riveted design and it was coined the XX.

Calico Mine Jean, ca. 1890 (courtesy of Levi’s)

Fast forward to the 1890′s. The 1890 501® Jean was the first style created after Levi’s lost the patent for riveting clothing that same year. The loss of the patent meant that the company would have to add details to further differentiate themselves from the inevitable onslaught of imitators and new competitors. The brand kept the back cinch and its famous (but no longer wholly their own) rivets, while replacing the name XX with the now universally-known 501® lot number. What’s interesting about the 1890 501® Jean is that it also featured a crotch rivet at the base of the fly – something that would ultimately go the way of the back cinch.

“Homer” Jean, 1917 (courtesy of Levi’s)

The next landmark Levi’s release was the 1922 501® Jean, which marks the first version of denim where belt loops were used. Up to the 1920′s, belts were largely considered decorative and reserved for military uniforms. However, after World War I belts began appearing on high-end clothing, eventually being adopted by younger men returning to the workforce. Even with the option of a belt, the suspender buttons and back cinch stayed. Usually, younger men cut the cinch off to use a belt, and older gentlemen used the cinch and suspender buttons while ignoring the belt loops. By keeping both options, Levi’s ensured many first-time buyers would continue to buy their jeans.

“The Cowboy Jean”, 1933

The 1933 501® Jean was similar, offering buyers the option of cutting off the cinch and removing the suspender buttons in favour of wearing a belt. By now it was so popular to cut the cinch and suspender buttons off that Levi’s retailers kept a large pair of fabric scissors on the shop’s desk just for the occasion. After the purchase, they cut off the cinch right at the rivet and snipped off the suspender buttons before leaving the store. Keeping a similar path, the 1937 added the famous red tab but also removed the suspender buttons; now, customers could buy press-on buttons if they still avoided a belt.

1944 Counter Card (courtesy of Levi’s)

Signalling an end to the era of the back cinch, the belt finally took over in 1942. The stepping stone 1944 501® Jean release was completely free of a back cinch, suspender buttons and a crotch rivet. Besides the unstoppable popularity of wearing a belt, the resource crunch of World War II mandated by the United States government told all clothing manufacturers to remove a certain amount of material from their garments. With that, the back cinch wouldn’t be desired by customers until the reproduction movement of the past decade or so.

Although the back cinch is no longer entirely functional, for those seeking a re-pro look have the many Japanese brands, in addition to Levi’s Vintage Clothing, to thank. Feel free to add repro favourites of yours in the comments section below.

The post History of the Cinch: Holding Up Your Pants Since 1872 appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

It’s interesting to think about how something so simple as a bar tack is so crucial. In the same way that denim itself can be so simple, yet so crucial as a standard in a person’s wardrobe, bar tacks represent an important step in the evolution of denim. But unlike the back cinch, bar tacks still exist because they haven’t been made obsolete.

For those wondering–”what exactly is a bar tack?”–it’s a tight zig-zag stitch that is repeated over and over itself to reinforce an area of fabric. Even though we’re talking about denim here, it’s also used on other clothing items, luggage, and even sneakers. This reinforcing reduces tears, which is all-important in items like a pair of jeans. When you decide to get your crotch blowout repaired at a shop that doesn’t offer darning, you’re likely going to get glorified bar tacking that seals the hole shut.

On a pair of jeans, you’ll specifically see bar tacks used around the pockets, belt loops, the fly, and the hips. Collectors of vintage Levi’s can use bar tacks as a litmus test for whether a pair is truly vintage or not; if bar tacks are used on the corners of back pockets in colors differing from the rest of the jean, then the jeans are likely over 20 years old. Bar tacking is so essential to the production of fabric-based goods that there is even a patent for a machine dedicated to making it a simplified process.

When done correctly, bar tacks can help products like jeans withstand pressures of up to 400 pounds. Although most pants don’t see that kind of stress, it’s further proof of why people love jeans–the fabric itself and the construction that make a classic pair worth buying means a pair can last years and years. The next time you’re perusing racks of denim, or better yet, pulling on your favorite pair first thing in the morning, look for the classic zig-zag stitch.

The post Breaking Down Bar Tacks appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

There are many roads that lead to great fades, and the Levi’s 501 Shrink to Fits from Rawr Denim forum user StormAK are living proof. These are Storm’s first pair of raw denim, but you’d never doubt his commitment by wearing them 385 days straight to achieve some of the best 501 STF fades we’ve had the privilege to feature on Fade Friday.

Storm also forewent conventional raw wisdom: he refused to soak his unsanforized jeans until he reached a personal goal of 1000 hours of wear and the before pictures practically scream size down. The final product, however, will tell you that he did everything just right.

Scroll below to see all the steps of this raw denim evolution and see the whole fade thread here.

Details

• Name: Levi’s 501 Shrink to Fit
• Fabric: 100% Cotton unsanforized indigo denim
• Weight: 12.5oz
• Fit: Straight
• Other details:
  • Classic Levi’s red tab
  • Back pocket arctuates
• MSRP:  $64 at Levi’s

Before

After 3 Months

4 Months Presoak

4 Months Post soak

10 Months

13 Months – Retired

The post Fade Friday – Levi’s 501 STF (13 months, 4 soaks, 4 washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

By LEVI’s

When it comes to denim, the first name that no doubt springs to mind is Levi’s®. With 140 years of experience, not only is Levi’s® the oldest denim company in the world, it has also become such an industry bellwether that its very name is thought of as being synonymous with “jeans.”

Throughout its history, Levi’s® has always taken a forward-thinking approach to product. From Levi’s® Red Tab to RED labels, the Commuter Series to the premium XX division—which includes the Levi’s® Vintage Clothing and Made & Crafted collections—their offerings have changed the idea of denim as we know it.

As the company that Levi Strauss founded continues to expand its established lines and create more niche collections, it’s clear that the brand’s goal is to arm today’s creative generation for the modern frontier. In that light, here are our selections for three Levi’s® staples that are timeless, raw, iconic, and wallet-friendly:

501 Original Shrink-to-Fit Jeans

As one of Levi’s® signature and most celebrated pieces, the 501® Original Shrink-To-Fit Jeans are about as classic as it gets. Quite frankly, they are the epitome of raw jeans, and a tried-and-true favorite of denim heads everywhere.

What’s more, as Levi’s® continues to take an environmentally conscious approach to its production, the company has brought the 501® Original Shrink-To-Fit into the fold of the Water<Less program, an initiative whereby 20 percent of the jeans’ material is comprised of recycled plastic bottles.

• Name: Levi’s 501 Original Shrink-to-Fit Jeans
• Weight: 12.5 Oz.
• Fit: Straight leg
• Starting at: Levi’s for $48.00

Trucker Jacket

Having made it’s debut over fifty years ago, the Trucker Jacket has successfully withstood the test of time and earned it’s reputation as yet another classic Levi’s garment. While it it’s difficult to compare the level of detail and construction to the LVC Type I, Type II, and Type III jackets, the jacket offers offers an iconic and versatile aesthetic without compromising function.

• Name: Levi’s Trucker Jacket
• Weight: 12.1 Oz.
• Fit: Straight
• Starting at: Levi’s for $78.00

Sawtooth Western Shirt

Although the San Franciscan brand unveiled it’s lighter western wear in the 1940′s, it wasn’t for another decade that we were introduced to the original Sawtooth Western Shirt. Named after the saw blade shape on the pocket flaps, this particular Western Shirt has evolved quite a bit since it’s rugged days on the ranch and now takes on a more slim, modern fit. Through all iterations, however, it’s still held it’s place as one of Levi’s pioneering staples.

• Name: Levi’s Sawtooth Western Shirt
• Weight: 3.6 Oz.
• Fit: Slim
• Starting at: Levi’s for $78.00

The post Equip Yourself For Levi’s Modern Frontier With Three Raw Pieces appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

Growing up through the early 2000′s shaped my fashion sense in a unique way. Through my teenage years I found myself deeply immersed in the punk rock and skateboarding scenes. As many of you know, both of these cultures have been historically intertwined. Their ethos of going against the grain, doing things yourself, and wearing unique fashions have become almost synonymous with each other.

Perhaps one of the most staple pieces between both cultures are denim jeans. Faded, torn and deconstructed jeans served as a signal that you did not live life in the green. They were and still are a testament to living life to its fullest potential. Case in point – the Ramones. They were famously known for wearing their jeans until they literally fell apart.

Punk rock pioneers, The Ramones, in their signature leather jackets and denim

As I discovered the culture behind raw denim, I learned about the idea of wearing a garment that told a story through its signs of wear. Immediately after being gifted my first pair, I took to the internet to learn about raw denim and how I should care for it etc. Many of the links led me to this very site, Rawr Denim, which turned out to be pretty knowledgeable about the raw denim space and provided fuel to my interest and knowledge base.

There was one question that had always been nagging me though. How did the raw and selvedge denim become so popular? I know that unwashed denim used be the standard and the market later strayed towards pre-distress and mass cutting, but how was it decided that raw denim was once again “in vogue” and fashionable?

While this article is rather exhaustive, the aim is to delve into this pressing question and pick the brains of some of today’s producers of raw denim.

The 90′s and early 2000′s were an interesting time for fashion. Buying jeans pre-distressed and ripped seemed to be the cool thing to do for a while, but from about 2005 onwards, dark wash and raw denim has surged in popularity. A number of brands – such as Levi’s, A.P.C., Samurai, and Evisu - seem to have resurrected raw and selvedge denim from near extinction.

Interesting, but how and why did select consumers suddenly turn their attention to raw and selvedge denim? Was it the level of care and craftsmanship put in to making the garments? Perhaps it was the mentality of having a “historic” or “authentic” ethos behind the garment, or maybe it was even the DIY approach of creating your own fades and distress patterns.

I’m sure that the motivation for consumers could be one, all, or even none of these reasons. How did you yourself get into raw denim?

A State of the Union – Where We Are

The raw denim scene at this time is a special hybrid of aesthetic and ideals. It currently stands at a crossroads where modern meets traditional and where basic meets the outrageous and revolutionary. The 800 lb. gorilla names such as Levi’s been joined  by heavy-hitting newcomers like Nudie, Naked and Famous and Baldwin Denim. Smaller brands – including Tellason, Ande Whall, Roy, Rogue Territory, and Left Field NYC - have also begun to gain popularity and build a strong reputation around their collections.

Alongside the joining of new and old school brands, we have also seen the same marriage of modern and traditional sensibilities in terms of fit and construction techniques. Brands are producing heritage pieces that harken back to the days when denim was worn purely as work wear with fits that emulate the originals, hence their birth of vintage labels such as Levi’s LVC and Lee’s Vintage Collections).

Some companies, such as Samurai, take the approach of constructing denim in a historical way on vintage looms; enabling a more unique slubby feel to each pair produced while making the jean in more modern fits such as slim and skinny. Other players, like Naked and Famous, bring raw denim completely into the modern era. State of the art-constructed Japanese selvedge denim is utilized with modern fits and combined occasionally with unorthodox treatments like glow-in-the-dark or rainbow core thread.

While all of this denim proliferation is well and good, we find ourselves confronted with perhaps the most difficult characteristic of the internet age. The internet has completely democratized the process of distribution so that anyone with an idea and clever marketing plan may bring their product to the masses. The barriers of entry have been undoubtedly lowered, thus opening the proverbial floodgates to lead to an even further boost of brands, perhaps to the point of product saturation.

This saturation and ease of distribution certainly comes with both upsides and downsides. For starters, raw denim enthusiasts have never had such an immense number and diverse range of options to choose from. With so many other companies offering a niche product as well, the increased competition should theoretically push brands to differentiate and create more unique and better products.

Unfortunately, quality does not always correlate with quantity. End-consumers have been forced to develop a filter in order to sift through the noise and determine which product is actually better. Seems easy enough but this task is even more difficult – and necessary – as so much commerce is now conducted online.

Usually individuals tend to stick to larger brands known for their quality, while occasionally trying out some smaller brands that have gained notoriety through word-of-mouth. This also means that some brands who are able to market well can move product that may not be as high quality as another brand with higher quality goods without a honed marketing approach.

Despite the strong presence the internet has in selling raw and selvedge denim there are still many brick-and-mortar stores that sell quality garments. Self Edge, Blue in Green, and Tenue de Nimes are three such purveyors that have all made names for themselves through melding their online and offline retail approaches. Each offer (and curate) quality and rare products while providing exceptional knowledge and customer services through their storefronts and online portals.

While this is one perspective on the current denim scene, we now turn to three makers for their thoughts and insights on the industry - Zack Meyers of Zace Meyers Overall Co., Christian McCann of Left Field NYC, and Brandon Svarc of Naked and Famous.

Zach Meyers of The Great Zace Meyers Overall Co.

Zachary Meyers of The Great Zace Overall Co.

The current state of of the industry is better than ever! It would appear as if there’s a current resurgence in the artisan community of craftsmen and craftswomen. I remember ten years ago when I personally started making selvedge jeans in Ohio and people thought I was crazy for my belief in American made and the sacrifices I made to accomplish such a goal.

No matter how many people buy a sewing machine to make a pair of jeans, the fact of the matter is, who will have the ability to produce a premium jean at an affordable price and make a bunch to fuel the demand? It’s awesome to see so many people attempting to make jeans and also to see the denim scene essentially demanding American Made. The future looks bright!

Christian McCann of Left Field NYC

Christian McCan of Left Field NYC

It’s good that we have a lot more options for Made-in-America denim, but it would be nice if newer brands tried to differentiate themselves from what’s already out there either in style, fit or branding. I think branding is important to distinguish yourself. I’m kind of shocked that many brands don’t even have custom tack buttons or rivets or blank leather labels. I feel that shows a lack of passion. That said, it’s still nice to see handcrafted, small batch jeans being made in America by independent brands.

Regarding denim, I was very happy to see that Cone had expanded their White Oak plant to address the demand for American-made selvedge denim. I just hope they can get a little more creative with their development. I think there is a huge opportunity for another mill to produce American made selvedge denim, duck or twill. I’m surprised the Japanese haven’t set up shop in the US to do this already.

It would be nice to see companies like Levis, Lee and Wrangler reopen up some of the factories they abandoned for cheaper overseas labor. The East Coast apparel industry has been decimated, and it makes it very hard to produce clothing here. I believe Americans are now willing to pay a bit more for American-made denim, and if done in mass, US-made jeans could be made more affordable. That would put the country back in the sweet spot, and the apparel industry could supply millions of jobs to out of work Americans.

Step it up Obama, you saved Detroit now it’s time to rebuild the apparel industry in America.

Brandon Svarc of Naked and Famous Denim

Brandon Svarc of Naked and Famous Denim (image source: Hypebeast)

I find it so funny when people ask me if I’m worried that because ‘raw denim jeans’ is a trend now people will move away from. To me that’s such nonsense. Raw denim isn’t a trend at all. It’s the tacky washed and distressed denim jeans that are the fad.

People have been wearing raw jeans for over 100 years and will continue to wear them for the next 100 and beyond. That’s like asking me if Coke is a fad. Again, it’s the tacky Crystal Pepsi and New Coke that are short lived, while the original Coke will continue to be consumed and loved for the next 100 years and beyond.

Where Are We Heading?

Perhaps the most looming question for all of us then is where will our niche of leg wear go from here? Will the raw denim scene continue to grow and flourish or will it slowly fade into the ether as a fad of modern fashion? The market has recently seen a range of new brands of all shapes and sizes, but is it possible this will have a negative effect? Could consumers become jaded and begin to ignore the raw denim culture as a whole?

As we know, brands like Samurai and Pure Blue Japan produce products that far exceed what most people count as satisfactory when it comes to their construction and fabric. However, the high standard that these products are made to often translates into their a lofty price tag that, to those who do not understand the rationale behind the pricing, may receive a derisory sniff and a movement toward a cheaper alternative.

On the flip side, larger, more established brands can make raw and selvedge denim more accessible to the general public through large scale mass production and lower price points. Sounds like a fantastic idea right? It is, but this mass production and lower price can also be reflected within the finished product by lower quality garments and less attention to detail.

That said, there is a silver lining. Currently raw denim culture is bigger and stronger than it has ever been and there are seemingly no signs of it slowing down. It is becoming so popular that even larger companies are taking note of the growing trend and either resurrecting past lines that include raw and selvedge denim or creating entirely new lines.

However, we’d love to hear your thoughts on the state of the world of raw denim and what’s on the horizon; feel free to share your comments below

The post Raw Denim – A State of the Union appeared first on RawrDenim.com.

It goes without saying that Levi’s is a name that needs no introduction. From their workwear origins to the competitively-priced fashion titan that they have become, they’ve set a high standard for denim goods. This week, we’ll be taking a look at a beautifully worn in pair of 513s; a slim-straight, mid-rise option.

This pair comes from our Johann Kim, who purchased the 513 Rigid Selvedge at a local Levi shop for $75.00. Despite the potential issues with Levi’s raw options being allegedly washed and treated, Johann took the plunge and gave them a go.

His first wash came at 4 months with cold water and light detergent, followed by another at 6 months (which he attributes to some rigorous physical activity, including racquetball which he so eloquently put was “for lols”), and a subsequent ocean wash, which he used our guide to accomplish. Since then he has  washed his denim every 3 months.

Details

• Name: Levi’s 513 Rigid Selvedge
• Weight: 12.5 Oz.
• Fit: Slim-Straight
• Other Details:
  • 5 pocket
  • Copper Hardware
  • Red Selvedge ID
• Available at: Amazon for $77.95
  

Photos – Before

Photos – After

The post Fade Friday – Levi’s 513 (1 Year, 4 Washes) appeared first on RawrDenim.com.